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Michael Mente
Co-CEO, Revolve Group (parent/owner), Alexandre Vauthier (haute couture house, a Revolve Group brand)

WWD Digital Forum Los Angeles: Mike Karanikolas & Michael Mente from REVOLVE Clothing

🎥 Jun 08, 2016 📺 WWD ⏱ 27m 👁 539 views
Introduction ...
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Transcript (47 segments)
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Announcer0:00
[Music] Please welcome Mike Karanias and Michael Mente, co-founders and co-chief executive officers of Revolve, and Marcy Medina, West Coast Bureau Chief of WWD.
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Marcy Medina0:20
Welcome back everyone, hope you had a good coffee break. As you heard in the introduction, I'm sure these guys need no introduction but I'm going to do one anyway. Since there's two Mics here we should clarify — on the end we've got Michael Mente, co-founder and co-chief executive officer of Revolve Clothing, and next to me is Mike Karanias. They were telling me that's sort of how they differentiate in the office — Michael and Mike. So for those of you who don't know, Revolve was founded in 2003, which means you guys are having a big 13th anniversary this year. Congrats! And Revolve sells, as you may know, over 500 different brands and some — is it 30,000 SKUs or?
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Michael Mente1:00
Thank you. Yeah, got more than that. Every year, over 40,000 SKUs pass through our website.
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Marcy Medina1:18
That's a lot. A lot of stuff. And a lot of the headlines we've been writing recently, and as well as we've all seen in all kinds of news media, are the recent struggles of what Michelle referred to as incumbent retailers or Old Guard retailers. Joyce mentioned some of those struggles today. Old school retail, traditional retail just doesn't work anymore. So after 13 years I can't necessarily call you a startup anymore, but what have you guys been doing differently? Is there some kind of secret sauce to succeeding or even surviving?
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Michael Mente2:00
I think the key is understanding how to connect with the next generation of retail consumers. That's exactly what's causing pain for the Old Guard and exactly what's causing success for retailers like us. Consumers are still spending on clothing, so you hear about all these headlines of pain in retail, but it's really headlines around the Old Guard where sales are shifting from them to companies like ourselves. As far as connecting with the next generation, it comes down to going about your business in very different ways — everything across the board from marketing strategy to merchandise strategy to customer experience and platform. It's all very different in what we view as the new guard of retailers such as ourselves versus the incumbents.
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Marcy Medina2:46
And being a digital-first company, do you think there are some of these Old Guard disadvantages that you were able to sidestep, launching in that space and being an early adopter?
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Michael Mente2:59
Definitely. Particularly early in our history we made some moves that were critical. Some Old Guard retailers have caught up to certain things, but we're already three steps ahead on other aspects. Going back to 2003, we understood the importance of selection online — it should be like the flagship store in terms of choice. We also understood that the home has to be a dressing room; consumers can't purchase clothing without being able to touch it and try it on. Old Guard retailers thought that would protect them from online, but out of the gate we offered free shipping and free returns when no one else was doing it. On merchandise strategy: today's consumer is looking for different things. Emerging brands, things that are new and undiscovered, are much more important to today's consumer than consumers of old. We see it across industries — most notably the shift in the beer industry, where 15 years ago you had Miller, Bud, and a handful of others, and now there are hundreds of interesting, desirable, special brands. That's what we bring to the fashion space. In terms of marketing, the millennial generation has a very different relationship with influencers and authority figures. They don't like to be talked down to from a pedestal or a billboard. They draw inspiration from sources that are more authentic and organic, people they can relate to as a friend or partner versus a traditional authority figure.
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Marcy Medina5:39
And you say partner. I think one of the things we discussed here at the Summit is also that sense of discovery — consumers want to feel like they're making their own decisions, yet they're also saying help me a little bit, guide me a little bit. Mike, why don't you tell us about how you help foster that sense of discovery and how it goes along with the new way that people shop? As Joyce pointed out, people like to mix and match their labels — they can do that because you sell 500 different ones — but how do you really guide them and foster that sense of discovery?
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Mike Karanias6:13
Our merchandising mix is really an evolution of the next generation, what millennials really want. If you look back 15 or 20 years, you'd go to a mall and that was your range of selection. You'd go to the section of the store you most identified with, wear the same clothes as your peers for social validation. But now self-expression and uniqueness are so important. When we first started in 2003, it was really about availability — big brands were still important, trusted names you were familiar with. But now merchandising is really about discovery. Out of those 500 brands, we're very focused on what we call emerging designers or micro labels that you can't find in your typical mall. About nine out of our top 10 selling brands are emerging designers with very little distribution to major department stores. Millennials discover these unknown, special brands themselves through social media, through influencers — that special aspect of discovery and education where they're very familiar with the brand in ways they weren't in years past, and they have a deeper connection because it's closer to them than being spoken down to from massive advertising or a magazine saying you need to wear this.
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Marcy Medina7:54
One example is probably LPA by Pia Arobiou, which launched in August. That's got an interesting story behind it — it sort of was born out of a person-to-person social connection.
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Mike Karanias8:07
Definitely, it's super interesting. We're always looking for new emerging talent because that's what our consumer wants. In times past, we've seen that in one given year two of our top 20 brands went out of business — being a small emerging designer is not easy. You have to be an amazing entrepreneur and business person but also have great creative vision. We were familiar with Pia through social media — she was working at Reformation at the time, and through friends of friends we knew what she was about and were fans of hers. We heard she was moving to Spain to work for Zara, and through a mutual friendship with Emily Rakowski, we learned she was looking for opportunities. She had her notice and was ready to leave for Spain, and we were able to intercept her and develop a partnership. We launched the collection a few months ago and it's been a tremendous success.
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Marcy Medina9:09
What are some of the other emerging brands? One of these — I always refer to it like the Coachella roster of small brands you may not have heard of.
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Mike Karanias9:27
I think it's a brand called For Love and Lemons, based locally. It's very much connecting with what our Revolve consumer wants. In our world it feels like a big established brand, but if you take a big step back and look at the national or global scale, it's still a very, very small brand. It's a great example of what a consumer wants and what they're gravitating towards.
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Michael Mente9:49
Definitely. I'm seeing the trend with micro influencers and micro, mini brands — micro big brands.
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Marcy Medina9:55
One thing I wanted to ask you both is how the advent of instant fashion — or see now, buy now, wear now, order now — everything being so immediate, as well as the evolution of the traditional fashion show schedule, how has that changed how you have to do business?
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Mike Karanias10:12
For us, being born with a different DNA, we were already always operating in that world of see now, buy now. With no experience, it was always odd to us that it's August, the hottest month of the year for 60 to 70 percent of the population that spends on apparel, but we're getting shipped all of our fall and winter wear. We've always seen our seasonality as more of a see now, buy now, wear now, immediate gratification model. Maybe at the designer price point, with special runway shows and limited selection, you may buy in advance. But for our Revolve Zone, it's always been about what am I doing now, what do I need to wear, what's important to me in my lifestyle now, and shopping for that immediately. It's good to see everyone adjusting and understanding — listening to the consumer now.
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Marcy Medina11:09
We've also talked a lot about person-to-person, in-person connections in terms of marketing. I know you guys do a lot of things out of the box, some things traditionally, but talk about some of the more innovative marketing strategies you've used in the last year and how you're really reaching that millennial customer.
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Mike Karanias11:27
The interesting one will be the Revolve Social Club. It's physical retail but it's really not built for sales per square foot — it's built for expressing our lifestyle and giving experiences. It's a private shopping experience open to our VIP customers, high-value customers, our network in the fashion community — influencers, bloggers, stylists. The main goal is to provide experiences that express the Revolve lifestyle and what we mean to our consumer. Old marketing strategies used to be a campaign, one image as contrived as possible to represent a certain lifestyle. The consumer now sees so many of these images they're overwhelmed — an amazing glossy billboard with one of the most beautiful people in the world in a glamorous setting is just not relatable. What we try to do is create real-life examples with people you may or may not know, your friends and peer group, that represent the lifestyle you want. The Social Club is a great way for us to do that in our backyard on a regular basis.
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Marcy Medina12:45
Right, and there's some commerce that takes place there but it's by no means the main mandate of this space, right?
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Mike Karanias12:47
Definitely. There's some commerce that takes place there, but the real goal is engagement on the website over the long term. Coming to the Social Club shop is great, but going on your phone every morning and seeing what's new is even better.
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Marcy Medina13:01
Speaking of commerce, you used to have a physical store on Melrose which is quite close to where the Social Club is now, and you also had a really successful pop-up at The Grove earlier this year. As far as brick-and-mortar retail goes, is that still something that's on the table for Revolve?
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Michael Mente13:20
Our more recent experiences with physical retail have been tremendously successful. The pop-up store at The Grove vastly exceeded our expectations — we were open for a two-month period and it was actually profitable, which really surprised us because it was more of a marketing event for us. I think the future of physical retail is strong and it could play a role in our future, but for us we have so much going on right now that it's not an area of focus.
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Marcy Medina13:50
In terms of other areas of focus, you've had a really successful acquisition of Alliance Apparel last year in March of 2015, bringing in some existing brands to your portfolio, and then you also added six in a little less than a year. What's next with that? I know it helped bring you some manufacturing capabilities — what else?
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Michael Mente14:15
As far as Alliance goes, we want to continue to pursue and build on that strategy. They're turning out the kinds of brands and designers that our consumer is looking for, so we're looking to add on top of what we've already done. While we do have internal targets, the most important thing is the quality of what we do. We want to grow as fast as we can but also make sure we're doing it the right way. It's going to come down to how well we're able to find new design talent and come up with new concepts for the consumer. We think there's a lot coming, but it's TBD exactly when and what that looks like.
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Marcy Medina14:50
I'm curious — when you talk about finding new talent and you mentioned how you found Pia through happenstance, is there a lot of talent recruitment that goes on in the social media world? Do you find a lot of that on digital now?
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Mike Karanias15:03
Definitely. That's the easiest way to see the whole world and the whole range of what's out there and who's doing interesting things. It allows you to go to more specialized rabbit holes, secret finds, versus always going to the places with the most noise and awareness. It's been super important for us to stay in touch with what's going on out there.
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Marcy Medina15:23
You guys have had some pretty explosive year-over-year growth. I know you're on track for 600 million this year.
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Michael Mente15:38
Over 600 million. We're getting near the B word. It is something we see in the near future — whether we get there next year or the year after is still TBD. But growth continues to be strong, and internally we're projecting that by 2018 we'll hit a billion in sales.
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Marcy Medina15:53
Wow, that's amazing. So what is next for Revolve here in Los Angeles, internationally?
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Mike Karanias16:04
That's one thing we always balance. We've alluded to it twice, both with physical retail and new lines — it's the balance of doing what we currently do better and better, which I think is always one of the best opportunities, but also layering on new opportunities. Long-term, that first billion and beyond, we really think international will be very, very important. We're aware of the challenges and thinking several years out — I'm actually heading to China tomorrow to begin to learn and understand. It's not something we can do quickly; it'll take years of work, foundation-laying, and understanding. We'll begin the work now because we think 2018 and beyond is a huge opportunity. We've really proven the global consumer is interested in what we're doing, and we need to make the consumer experience easier and better for them.
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Marcy Medina17:06
Those are good goals to have. Everyone's got a lot of work to do in the next year too. I think we've got to wrap it up because we want to open it up to questions from the audience. Does anyone have any questions?
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Audience Member17:18
Hi Mike and Michael. There was a little mention of acquisitions up on stage and I was wondering if you could add a little more color on that. When you think about acquisitions moving forward, are you really focusing mainly on emerging new brands, or would you ever consider something you might call the Old Guard? How do you look at that moving forward?
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Michael Mente17:45
I think all acquisitions we look at on a case-by-case basis. I think it's unlikely we'd be interested in something that one might call the Old Guard of physical retail, but with any acquisition it's all about understanding how it fits into what we do — can we add a lot of value there, turn the company around or accelerate growth in a substantial way. For us it's typically been emerging designers and things of that nature. We also think we have a great e-commerce platform and great organizational expertise in connecting with the next generation of consumers, so an acquisition that could plug into that infrastructure and know-how is also something we'd be interested in.
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Audience Member18:30
Awesome, congratulations and thanks for speaking with us today. Could you speak to maybe one or two tactical things you're doing that are making that customer experience easier and better, or the three steps ahead that really made an impact for the business?
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Michael Mente18:47
From our marketing standpoint, we made a lot of moves to connect with this generation of consumers. Our marketing strategy is very different — it's very centered around influencers and social media. That's an important tactical move we made over the past four years, focusing our marketing efforts in that way. From a merchandise standpoint, understanding the importance of emerging designers and things that seem special to the consumer. Also understanding the importance of a larger assortment and constantly turning product — today's consumer doesn't want new product four times a year like the traditional schedule. They don't even want new product every month. They want new product every single day. That's what excites them — visiting your website or store and seeing something new and fresh. Every day on Revolve there's hundreds of new styles, so it's interesting to our consumers every day.
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Deborah Sawaf20:01
Hi, I'm Deborah Sawaf of TBLO. I'm really impressed by your vision and how you've been able to realize it. I know you do mostly contemporary brands — do you think Revolve would be interested in emerging luxury brands at some point? Would it be accessories or only restricted to apparel?
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Mike Karanias20:25
Definitely. One thing that's public but we don't talk about quite as much is that we also run a website called Forward — fwrd.com — and it's about 20% of our business. It's very much focused on the luxury world. Our biggest brands there are Saint Laurent and Givenchy — that world of fashion. That's a good example of us leveraging the core Revolve infrastructure into adjacent segments and leveraging all the capabilities with a smaller team. If Forward had to build the entire digital infrastructure from scratch, it would be a much bigger challenge. We're actually very active in the luxury world — it's a fast-growing segment and an important part of our long-term growth strategy.
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Audience Member21:18
Hi. So in the digital and retail world there's the cautionary tale of Nasty Gal, and I was wondering what you think people can do to not be the next Nasty Gal. They received so much buzz and press, but at the end of the day some of the fundamentals weren't there. Do you have any advice on how to avoid that?
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Mike Karanias21:42
I think this is one thing not specific to Nasty Gal but to all emerging businesses — growing too fast is a challenge. We've had the luxury of being in business and compounding growth for 13 years to reach our scale, whereas when you're growing at crazy numbers like 2,000% in a year, regardless of what business you're in, that's extremely challenging — particularly when you're dealing with physical product, scaling, and building a team. When opportunities are there, of course we all want to seize them, but growing as fast as you can keep up with is super key. It sounds crazy to skip growth opportunities, but if you can't keep up, they're equally dangerous.
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Michael Mente22:34
Building on that idea of growing too fast is the idea of expectations that were maybe too high. Nasty Gal originally took on venture capital investors, which are great and can add a ton of value, but the way they run businesses and what they expect are very different from private equity investors or other types. With venture capitalists, they're looking to hit a couple home runs paired with maybe a dozen strikeouts. So anytime you as a business decide to take on a venture capital investor, you need to understand that you could just as easily become a strikeout as a home run.
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Audience Member23:21
Hello. I was curious to take it back to social influencers — you guys are obviously working with them on a daily basis. What is your perspective on FTC guidelines and how that's going to impact the authenticity of their content with you?
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Mike Karanias23:39
That's something very interesting. Our general philosophy is we're lucky enough not to be the biggest guys. It's something we have to very much pay attention to, but we really follow the lead of the bigger advertisers and influencers. We're much smaller in that scale. It's something we'll have to be aware of, but I personally feel it's a very level playing field — if it affects all of us, it affects all of us equally. Regardless of how that evolves, we're still going to be in a great position of strength.
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Michael Mente24:20
I think it's about the way in which you work with influencers. Regardless of whether there's a required hashtag or not, consumers can sense what content is more authentic versus what content an influencer wouldn't be doing if the sponsorship or payment wasn't there. That's been very differentiated about our social media strategy versus some larger companies — we're building experiences and stories that are authentic. Whether or not payment is exchanged, and it often is not, we're creating parties and experiences that influencers want to experience, and we're creating clothing and brands they want to wear. That's the key with consumers, and they can understand that through the stories we tell on social media.
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Audience Member25:08
I noticed you have about 600 employees. With you being such a quickly growing company, where have you invested in talent most heavily?
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Mike Karanias25:23
Honestly, across the board. We've had 13 years to really build great teams through and through. Over those 13 years, it's been done at different times — certain areas we had to be great at first, and there are areas now that we weren't as strong at in the past that we need to improve. But across the board — from the merchant side, the design side, the buying side, to the technology side — it's super key. That's the quiet secret to our success: really being able to build a great team over time.
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Michael Mente26:00
Having a team that really works well together and understands each other is important. A great team is critically important, but it's also important to understand there's only so much of an extent you can buy a great team. The great team has to be developed and fit in culturally and mesh well with everyone. Most of our critical roles have actually been with the organization five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten years even. We do make the occasional free agent acquisition, but it's largely homegrown talent, and that's been a critical factor in our success.
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Marcy Medina26:36
Amazing. Well, thank you so much. I think people probably have lots more questions for you, so we'll have to try and grab you later. But thank you so much to both of you. I think despite the fact we're here at a digital conference about fast-moving technology, it really seems like slow and steady wins the race, and there's a lot of old-school lessons that you guys are using to great success. Thanks for sharing.