My name is Paul Smith. I am a clothing designer. For years, I felt uncomfortable using the word creator, because I didn't go to art school. I learned on the job.
Paul Smith tended to change the style of clothes slightly. He's just given me a little better dress sense, which is rare from an English designer. Very British.
For me, wearing Paul Smith, it makes me happy. When I wear the clothes, I'm happy. Great patterns, bright colors.
Even though it's loads of flowers, it's great because it's discreet because it's in the lining.
I wouldn't wear socks, it's too extreme. I've got some crazy socks as well, but I only wear them when I'm feeling on top of my game.
I like the cut, and I like the finishing. Details are what's important underneath.
I think he was one of the first to do this. In other words, it feels a little different. You don't want to be normal, you want to be something different.
Good morning, sorry. Nice and early for you. I know, I know. How are you? I'm sorry you had to come so early. It's just the only time I can fit everything in.
Do we leave it down now? I might get myself a shirt to wear in Japan, I think. There's not many left, though, are there?
I like this one. But I'm giant size. That's the problem.
Healthy size, 17. You see? Big. I told you it was big. This shop was opened in 82. This used to be a bookshop. Because it's a boys' shop, I think it's quite cheeky having naked women in it. It's just, I suppose, my sense of humor.
It's good to know that I can still fold a shirt. It's nice to be back in the shop. I used to work in here, of course, on a Saturday.
Bye. Have a great day.
I get up very early. I leave the house around 6:00 am. I'm going swimming. Then I come here. At this hour, only the cleaning staff are present. It's very pleasant.
It's a good thing you didn't buy a size smaller. I would never have gone in there.
We are known for printing. I find many wonderful sources of inspiration in these catalogues. They are magnificent. Most of them date from 1800, 1850. We are in a five-story building. 180 people work here, including my stylist assistants, the marketing department, and the press department.
When I started, I didn't have the means to choose my fabrics. I had no money, no business. I could only buy white, striped or grey fabric. I was thinking: Why would anyone buy me a shirt? There are plenty of nice white shirts on the market. And then I thought that since I only had white fabric, putting an interesting button on it would make all the difference. It allowed people who wanted to be a little different or who had a little more personality to feel original without being ridiculous.
I'm not a very good artist. I don't know how to make elegant croquis like other stylists. So, it comes down to dialogue.
I can't draw beautifully, but I can tell you in a huge amount of detail what I want, and then somebody will draw it.
Ok, thank you. Have a good trip. We'll do that later because we have to go for the print meeting.
Spring, 11. Spring, 2011. No, no. Winter 2011. I got it all wrong.
Hello. We have this meeting twice a year, and these are all the assistant designers, and it's all to do with printed textiles. And basically, we look through all the different ideas for the various collections.
Ok, so first of all, his mainline, men's. That's Simon.
Hello. We started with a book. That's the spacesuit book. Frank Zappa. Frank Zappa was basically an LA-based rock singer who worked for an advertising agency and then became a rock star. He often used to wear suits, but he had very long hair, and he used to wear it with a big gorilla coat or something. It's a pretty interesting look.
His music was very radical. Based on the fact that the last two seasons have been very successive, but based on musicians or stars. So, we wanted to maintain that continuity.
It's shirt springtime. Record sleeve pulls. It's not a very graphic visual, but just more by having quite a lot of chaos, it should look a bit more grey to go with our grey section.
We have Urban Folk, which is more Smith heartland in terms of the coloring. One thing that worked well in summer was having a lot of color, and that's requested for winter. This is inspired by this little band of people. It's Devendra Banhart and her friends, a documentation of their holidays and hanging out. Look at this book. It's a really great book.
Ok, so the theme for Jeans is basically Bowie in Berlin, inspired by Kraut Rock. And so we dabbled with a bit of gentlemen, British gentlemen, in Berlin, with the tweeds, and the checks, and what have you. And then Kraftwerk, which were very tidy, neat, and just two or three colors.
So we had several prints over the years that have been based a bit on that artist, called Cy Twombly, who used to take his pencil for a walk. It could translate into a tie, it could be a fabulous scarf, just as it is now.
Paul is in his sixties, but when he talks with stylists in their twenties, you can see that they get along well. He has an exceptional ability to communicate with people of all ages. That's what makes Paul different.
This past season, the man has changed. The style and spirit of the main collection have been greatly rejuvenated. The boys are more punk, a bit more edgy, a bit more rock too. Customers are aging, so it was necessary to attract new ones. Over time, the brand has fared well. Paul did well in creating Paul Smith Jeans, PS, Mini Line, and in Japan, Paul Smith Collection. In England, there is Paul Smith London, which helps to attract a clientele of young men and, above all, to retain their loyalty.
I have to do that. No, for the lookbook, I understand, but if we are going to use it in some promotion or advertising, then it's best to have it a bit more fun attached to it. Because it's pretty obvious, that swimwear. Yeah, but also, it's pretty obvious, it's not Versace. So they're having a laugh. They're not bothered by the cam.
Most of the items in this room are things I brought back from my travels. I wish everyone could see an unbelievable letter with incredible objects. Here's the very latest one, it's great. And what's more, he doesn't give a damn. That's my number.
It took nine months to complete. It's Japanese newsprint. There are cherry blossoms. And the view from the window is not this one, it's Mount Fuji.
Many people take life so seriously that they don't really leave a mark. They only think about money and have very fixed opinions on things. Looking at this piece, you can see that I don't think quite like that, a little less conventionally.
It's very early. I've been going to Portobello every Friday for years.
You can find lots of vintage clothes there. It's nice, isn't it? 1920s? Beautiful. Lovely.
Driving coat, motorcycle coat.
Yeah, it looks like a driving coat, I think. How much is that one, anyway? 150. Yeah, very nice. Thank you.
Morning. How are you?
That's called a whole fall front. If it goes from here, it's called a half fall front.
I draw inspiration from a pattern, the way a sleeve is constructed, a pocket square, or the colors of a print. It's always good to come here.
Hello, how are you? Did you go swimming this morning? Yes, I did. That's quite nice.
I'm just trying to think. I've got some awful 70s suits. I mean, they're so bad. They're horrendous. I mean, there's another blue one on that top there. If you're a comedian or something. I've got one yellow silk, yellow satin down there, and it just looks like you shouldn't have.
I'd like to tell you, Scampi and Tiff, it's still available, and there's Bingo tomorrow night, and this one's for you, ladies. It's one of those. I might have that, then. How many are those? Something like that for you.
So how's the trip with you? Yeah, good. You're working too much. I am. I've been really busy, yeah. I know, I know. You sound like my wife. One life, you remember? One life. I know. No, but I love it. Yes, but you've got to remember that you love her as well. And she wants to see you here. I know, that's why.
