Jonathan Siegrist

Executive Vice President of Research & Development and Chief Technology Officer, QUIDELORTHO CORP

Pro Tips From Jonathan Siegrist And A Sick Send From Flagstaff Arizona | Climbing Daily Ep. 716

🎥 May 27, 2016 📺 EpicTV Climbing Daily ⏱ 6m 👁 25195 views

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About Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist, a professional sport climber, has been active in discussing climbing technique, training philosophy, and the culture of the sport. In a July 2025 podcast, he emphasized the importance of eliminating hesitation and visualizing movement from the ground to the top of a route, stating that "every try is a redpoint try." He also discussed his role as Arcteryx climb team captain, advocating for athletes and guiding brand strategy. Siegrist noted that as he has gotten older, he has prioritized body work, better sleep, and nutrition, and has cut back on alcohol to aid recovery. He described using voice memos to record beta and details for projects, and said that he prefers focused 6–8 week season trips to France rather than living there long-term, citing differences in gym and therapy standards. In a December 2023 podcast, Siegrist addressed the grading of a route he had climbed, stating that he disagreed with the 15b grade and that "personally it's not there." He described grading as "more of an inner dialogue" and said he strives for honesty. In another December 2023 appearance, he discussed his nutrition, noting an "insatiable sweet tooth" and describing a typical diet of eggs, tortillas, fruits, vegetables, and protein smoothies. He also expressed the view that "we all should cut back on our meat intake for environmental reasons." In a separate December 2023 discussion, Siegrist debated rebolting old routes for safety, stating that he personally disagrees with bolting everything conveniently and that some routes are worth preserving their character. He also provided instructional tips on clipping technique and stick clip use in earlier appearances from 2016 and 2018.

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Transcript (6 segments)

Narrator0:00

We've teamed up with Epic TV athlete Jonathan Siegrist to bring you some pro tips on sport climbing.

Jonathan Siegrist0:31

Hey everybody, Jonathan Siegrist here. I'm going to show you three nifty ways to use a stick clip. A stick clip is basically a really simple tool that I take with me sport climbing every day. It enables me to clip the first draw of a project I'm trying. If I'm worried about a ground fall, if I wanted to hit the ground every time I fell, I'd be a boulderer. I'm going to show you how to use this thing. It's awesome. It can help you do three essential things. One is to put a draw and your rope on the first draw. You're going to take the draw like so and load it into this little device. Pretty simple like that. This device is going to hold the gate open for you and also keep the draw nice and sturdy in there. Then grab your rope again, just like you were clipping. You want to make sure that your side of the rope is coming out from the draw like so. At that point, just reach the device up to the first draw. Boom, there you have it. So easy. And now I'm safe for the first few meters in my climb.

Okay, so the second method is to get your rope into an already existing quick draw on the wall. With this tool, you're going to load your rope in like so. Keep in mind paying attention to the direction of the gate on the carabiner. You don't want it to be back clipped. You want the rope to be coming from up against the wall through the draw and to you as the climber. So I make sure that the rope is loaded in this device in the proper way. It's pretty simple. You just wrap one side around a second time. It kind of keeps the rope a little bit more stable. Reach the rope up to the draw and then just pull on the other side like so. And it really simply pulls the rope in like that. You can see here I'm not back clipped. I'm ready to tie in and be safe for the first few meters of my climb.

With this tool specifically, you can actually remove draws that are already on the wall. So maybe you clip the first or the second bolt, you climb up, you're looking to climb a 6B, it turns out it's a day and you're just not into it. So you can actually remove your first two draws without having to go and leave them behind or climb the route. In order to do that, you first need a rope through the draw like I just showed you in the last one. Now the reason to have the rope through the draw is you basically just pull down on the draw and apply pressure, and then you take the stick clip like so, just push it up on the like this. Then you can easily get your draw back. You've rescued your draw. You don't have to leave any of your kit behind, and you don't have to climb that heinous looking 6A that you thought was maybe a really nice 6C warm-up.

Okay, so there you have it. Three different ways to make good use of your clip stick. If you want more tips like this, stay tuned to Climbing Daily's coverage of the Arctic Alpine Academy event in Shaman in June. I'm Jonathan Siegrist, and this is the keepy uppy challenge. Five, four, oh, right, damn it. No, whoa, not down there. I can get five. Oh, nope. Oh, I lost track. I couldn't count towards the end there. There was so many. Oh, what's up? What's up? That's what's up. Keepy uppy challenge. I'm out. Make sure you check out all the Epic TV coverage of the Arctic Alpine Academy when it comes to Shaman in June. Right, we thought it was time for another 6C end, so check out this one. It's Chandler Dub Allstars 7C Plus at Puzzlebox Roof at Priest.

Narrator6:48

What a pack show. Thanks for watching. See you soon.