So let's talk about Vermelho, which I think is probably the official marriage of Christian with Melides. It's a known love affair that you've had for more than a decade. When did your love affair with Portugal begin, and when did Melides come into your life?
My love affair with Portugal began a long time ago. It started with a friend shooting a movie in Lisbon about 30 years ago. Around the same time, I visited Comporta with a Portuguese friend from New York whose family had a place there. That was my first holiday on the beautiful beaches of Alentejo. It reminded me of my childhood in Brittany because of the ocean waves. I feel very much at ease here. Melides came into my story later. I had a house in Carvoeiro for more than 20 years, but things started to change, so I wanted to move. Then I cut my finger while drawing and had to go to the hospital on Santiago do Cacém. On the way back, we saw a lagoon and the car got stuck in the sand. While waiting for help, I walked around and thought, 'This is where I should move.' Two days later, I called the father of Madalena Cayado, the architect, who was my lawyer. I said, 'Don José, I am in a place called Cemitério de Melides – it looks like a city, I want something there.' He corrected me: 'It's Melides, a very nice village.' I said, 'Even better, I don't need to die there.' He found me a house within two days.
When did you think, 'I'm here, I love this, I'm going to build a hotel' – something you've never done? How did Vermelho appear?
After I cut myself and went to the hospital, I eventually got a house and moved. During the restoration, I was back and forth. I missed having a place like the restaurant Denish in Carvoeiro where I could go every night without booking. So I thought it would be nice to have a restaurant where I could put my feet up. I bought a little house for that, but the mayor told me to build a hotel on the land instead. I said yes by instinct, not as a business move. Later I questioned why so many people have the fantasy of owning a hotel. I think it's because in a hotel, people take care of you and you're not responsible – it's like going back to childhood. That's the fantasy.
It's funny you mention that. I've been following your career for many years and I know you invite friends like Toni Garrn to Portugal. I feel you've built a home to be pampered and to bring friends. What's the inspiration behind the hotel decor? It feels like home.
The easiest way to describe it is that I built it thinking it could be a home. It's only 13 rooms and two salons, plus a garden, so it's a big house. In a hotel, you standardize everything, but in a house, each room has its own style because each family member is different. So I thought of different characters: this room should be Elo's, this one Simon's, etc. I did the same with my shoes – I thought of different characters. Every room is different because every character is different. People often ask if I have a muse, but there are too many different women, so it's the same here.
But you also have a lot of Portugal in it – in the way you framed the doors and the tiles. Where can we find Portugal in the details?
The idea behind Vermelho was to have a place where you arrive and feel instantly at home. When I travel, I love arriving at a hotel I'll like and not wanting to move. It's your nest. We are in a small town, so the place should feel like it's always been there. The best compliment was when people asked about the restoration of this convent – but there was nothing before. It was incorporated into the landscape. Portuguese architect Madalena Cayado did it, and it was important to have a Portuguese feeling. Many elements come from Portugal: ceramics, tiles, terra cotta from Algarve. The facade is inspired by Manueline architecture. I commissioned artist JP, who lives in Rome, to do the frames because his work has a Manuelian feeling. I don't believe in cultural appropriation – it's homage, cultural fascination. The weaving was done in France but inspired by Portuguese baskets. The chimneys here are unique – I added many because they're fascinating. They reminded me of Iranian ventilation chimneys. In the south of Portugal, they are different heights and shapes. I also added a salon that mixes Filipino fine arts with Islamic Andalusian tiles from Spain. The mother-of-pearl concave pieces from the Philippines look like they've been extracted from the sea.
I love when you speak Portuguese – it's so correct. A little Brazilian at the end, but I'll take it. Congratulations to you and Melides, everything marries well. Vermelho feels like a home. It's aptly named. Was it the first name you thought of?
No, naming a hotel is like naming a child – you go back and forth. At first, we considered 'Momento' because it's a moment to rest, but it was too international and not Portuguese enough. Then I thought the floor should be red, so it was between 'Azul' and 'Vermelho'. Vermelho is correct: it means red, which is a bit about me – clandestine, maybe. In French, it's close to 'vermeil' (a mix of gold and silver) and 'merveille' (marvelous). So it made sense.
There are so many layers to the name – I only thought of red and Portuguese connection. I love that Vermelho is all over the hotel but subtle. What's the first Portuguese thing you do when you arrive in Melides?
A café com leite. Coffee in Portugal is much better than in France. That's the first thing I enjoy.
What's your favorite place around Melides?
Two places: I go to the beach to say hi and goodbye to the ocean. The other is Vida Dura, a store where many hotel ceramics come from, made by Rui Frazão.
What's your favorite restaurant around here and what do you order?
I go to Tia Rua for the dessert – a molotov. I'm not a big dessert person, but that one is amazing. The other is São Daniel in Santo André for the plum dish.
What's a dish combination in Alentejo that works for you?
Clams. I'm allergic to fish, so clams are as far as I can go. With Alentejo bread, it's perfect.
What's an unknown treasure in Portugal that locals take for granted?
Chimneys, and also the beauty of the landscape – the pine trees pruned by the wind. And the calçadas, the cobblestone roads. People want to replace them, which is criminal. The light of Portugal comes from the reflection of the white tiles on the floor.
What's the best pair of Louboutin shoes to walk on Portuguese cobblestone?
Anything, but not too high. For cobblestones, I'd recommend wedges or thick heels. The worst cities for high heels are Venice and Lisbon because of the hills and bridges.
You have a home in Lisbon too. What do you do in Melides that you don't do in Lisbon, and vice versa?
In Lisbon, I go to a restaurant that used to be by the sea and pay tribute. In Melides, I walk to the beach. I feel Parisian in Lisbon and Breton from Brittany in Melides.
That restaurant in Lisbon is a fish restaurant. What do you eat there? Lobster, crab?
Seafood but not fish. I'm allergic.
