So Mr. Scheufele, we were just discussing something very interesting. We have a world that from an economic perspective is a little hard to predict. Amidst fluctuations or even turmoil, it seems that people really focus on authentic watchmaking. To me, that's often expressed by extraordinary achievement in complications and also related to métiers d'art. Can you tell me from your perspective why you think it is that there's a human psychology to seek out that which is most authentic during these periods?
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
0:41 ↗
I think it's a coming back to the source. We are looking at watchmaking today in a more classical manner. Watches become smaller, more discreet, more subdued, but ever so more intricate and interesting inside. The other side is complications as a counterpoint to everything electronic and digital and a chaotic digital surrounding. These complications help you to resist and look at things in the long term.
Yes, and I think that's the beauty of traditional watchmaking, always with innovations as you go. Métiers d'art is another proposal we elaborate on greatly. We brought it back into focus, like a straw marquetry dial we are launching this year. It's about sharing values that last. In a fast-moving, chaotic world, it's important to have a counterpoint with watches that will last over time and provide pleasure for many years.
Indeed, sir. And value. You're absolutely right. It's as if these watches militate against the ephemera of the digital world. Now you mentioned classic proportions, craft, complications, authentic watchmaking. There is a watch on this tray that embodies that: a new 40.5 mm case for L.U.C with soldered lugs, which almost no one is doing. Inside is not only a perpetual calendar with big date but also a COSC-certified stop-seconds flying tourbillon.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
3:30 ↗
Yes, indeed. This watch for us is going back to the roots of our first perpetual calendar and redesigning what we believe is the perfect case for this movement. We added a beautiful flying tourbillon to the existing perpetual calendar with its functions and the big date. It's a top-tier perpetual calendar. We also introduce a new easily interchangeable bracelet. If today you're like me in green, perfect, but tomorrow if I'm wearing a blue suit, I can change it.
Spectacular. I love how you always take the difficult route, but in the end it yields the best results. Talk to me about soldered lugs. It really harks back to the golden age of case making, but no one does it today because it's that much harder.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
5:08 ↗
Well, luxury goes back to the basics of handmade case making. As we are introducing more handmade capacities within our entire manufacture, this was something I wanted reintroduced. It was not easily done because we had to retrain our craftsmen and persuade them it's the right way. Now they are really proud of what they achieved. The interesting thing is that for a case like this with a brushed surface, the only way is to have soldered lugs.
I love that you encouraged the craftsmen to retrain themselves. I met an artisan named Natalie who started doing angling, became an engraver, and is now teaching herself straw marquetry. We see the first examples in this beautiful watch with a jump hour indicator in straw marquetry. If you didn't know it was handmade, you wouldn't believe it.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
7:39 ↗
That's absolutely gorgeous. It's coupled with our beautiful four-barrel movement with just one hand, so you can really enjoy the entire marquetry and almost forget about time.
Now this is an interesting timepiece because it is a collaboration with Geneva's watchmaking school, from what I understand.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
9:27 ↗
Yes, indeed. We started a collaboration with the Geneva watchmaking school in 2004, and in 2010 we finished reconstructing the École movement. Every student after four years walks away with one of these movements that they decorated and assembled entirely. We provided all the blanks. We now also provide a moon phase aperture, so students can make a small complication. To commemorate this, we are proposing 20 limited edition watches using that movement with an astronomical moon phase that doesn't need adjustment for 122 years.
The students have a steel case that is slightly bigger and doesn't have this level of finish, but it's beautiful. It's important to support the watchmaking school, which was 200 years old last year. By providing parts and components, we motivate young people to pick up the trade. We must perpetuate the crafts, otherwise we would never present you with watches in the future.
Absolutely. It's great because from the press perspective, we talk about engaging the next generation of collectors, but if you don't engage the next generation of watchmakers, we will have nothing to collect. Now let's go to this watch, which I honestly consider the greatest minute repeater at the moment. It sounds beautiful thanks to sapphire crystal gongs acoustically tuned to the right pitch. Now it's executed in yellow gold. Am I correct?
Yes, it's executed in yellow gold, a combination of the gold version with the sapphire version we did before. Here you have the entire view of the movement without obstruction from back and front, but with the solidity of the gold case. We call it 'Revelation' because we reveal the entire movement. You can admire it through the sapphire dial.
That is truly phenomenal sounding. The quality of the sound, the acoustic properties, the loudness are extraordinary. I love that you listen to every single piece that leaves the workshop. Each watch has its own identity. There's nothing that expresses enduring character better than that.
Wonderful. So perhaps we can go from there to three Alpine Eagle watches. One is in ceramized titanium and features the high frequency movement. Perhaps we can start.
This is the lightest Alpine Eagle we have presented. The high frequency came in a titanium case and bracelet. Now we have a titanium case and a movement made of titanium components as well, with bridges and plates in titanium. The rubber strap gives a lighter feel and a more bold, adventurous look. I really love this watch.
How did it perform? Because the ceramized titanium provides lightness and surface hardness. I have admiration for your brand because you commercialized a high frequency movement. It resists shocks and has greater autonomy. You also had it COSC-certified, which is impressive. Many people create theoretical advantages but few put their money where their mouth is.
The results are stunning. Not only did we reach chronometer certification, but the way the movement reacts to shock is most interesting. With higher frequency, the shock absorbing ability is higher. The movement goes back on track quicker. This is the perfect sports watch.
