Ladies and gentlemen, how are you? Waco here in Geneva with my friend Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. How are you, sir?
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
0:06 ↗
Very well. How are you?
I'm great, you know, as you know, I'm quite old. Although I'm a new dad, so it's keeping me up.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
0:14 ↗
Congratulations on that.
Thank you. It's the most incredible experience, you know, and for those of you who don't have children, may I suggest that you go out and create children immediately, because it is just the most wonderful experience.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
0:26 ↗
I heard it here first.
But one of the things I recall back in the day, specifically 2006 for the kind of 10th anniversary for LUC, was the creation of an extraordinary chronograph caliber. I kind of like to think of this chronograph caliber is like the ultimate overachiever, you know, it's one of those like it's like one of those students that graduates from high school at 15 years old and plays the violin like at a concert level, but also is like astrophysicist and all these different things.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
0:59 ↗
Takes all the boxes.
Correct. So, let's go through the list of the incredible technical innovations related to this chronograph.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
1:08 ↗
So, where should we start? Vertical clutch?
Vertical clutch. So, vertical clutch is important, guys, because when you activate a horizontal clutch, you have a parasitical effect of trying to drive the chronograph train and that sometimes affects the underlying amplitude of the base caliber, but not with a vertical clutch, okay?
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
1:27 ↗
Flyback function?
Dude, one of my favorites. All right, so you hit the reset button and every hand will jump back to zero and restart immediately.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
1:37 ↗
It's such a fun function to play with.
Yeah. And an important feature when setting your chronograph is the fact that you're able to set it precisely where you want it to be. So, there's a zero set function as well that allows you to set your chronometer precisely and restart it at the exact time you want it to. And what's interesting as well is the architecture of the movement because usually you would start by building a manual wound chronograph first and then go for the automatic, but this caliber is based on the automatic version actually. And it gives it such a distinct, I find, depth in the architecture.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
2:19 ↗
Yeah.
And the choice we did was really to let everything open up as much as possible, not to hide anything with any bridges so you can really see that kind of intricate architecture of the movement.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
2:36 ↗
But I love the fact that you've done like the two different trains or the bridges related to the two trains in two different colors, right? So you've got the base caliber which has this lovely sort of three and yellow gold finishing to it. And then that which is related to the chronograph is in this more traditional sort of rhodium finish.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
2:59 ↗
And it's really cool because you understand immediately the two different levels that are happening here. We've got the column wheel over here. So when we activate the chronograph you can see that turning. And that activates the vertical clutch. So the cool thing with the vertical clutch is basically the clutch wheel is always spinning. When you drop it on top of the chronograph seconds wheel, they start moving together. But as we explained, there's no drop in amplitude for the balance wheel which is super important. All right. And then the flyback function so we can show you here. The chronograph is running. Or we're going to hit this button. So it was really funny because I actually used one of your chronographs to train my dog Bandit.
Yeah, I remember that story.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
3:42 ↗
Because like she needed to do like strict three-hour intervals between her pee breaks. This is to train Bandit to like learn how to pee on the grass outside. So I would bring her down and as soon as she pee, I give her a treat and then I hit my flyback function and the chronograph would reset and then 3 hours later I know I would bring her down.
That was on the Alpine Eagle.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
4:01 ↗
Yeah, that was on the Alpine Eagle version of that. Yeah, exactly. It's so cool.
Now, let's talk a little bit about the design of the watch as well because you guys make some very sophisticated cases with, you know, you kind of brought back this art form of soldered lugs as well. Talk to me about that.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
4:19 ↗
Well, we like making our lives a bit more difficult. And in 2023, at the end of 2023, we kind of completely redesigned the aesthetics of all our cases.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
4:32 ↗
Starting with the perpetual calendar and the Quattro. And the idea was to not only rework the cases and have a more traditional finishing on the side of the case, but also on the soldering of the lugs. The idea was also how can we make the watches more wearable? Because some of our calibers are highly technical but on the bigger side.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
4:55 ↗
And so you want a watch to really kind of sit nicely on your wrist. And that can be achieved through reworking the edges completely with nice brushing, reworking the lugs completely, new shapes and soldering them on just gives that extra kind of romance to the whole case making, which is something we master in house and something we want to be able to showcase as well.