Karl-friedrich Scheufele
0:00 ↗
I thought, how about a group of young people working on one watch and making everything by hand only using vintage machines. No CNC, no computer assisted design, totally analog watchmaking.
Exactly.
Today, Watch Advisor will take you on an incredible journey. We are in the Val-de-Travers in Fleurier, where the Ferdinand Berthoud watches are made. In 2019, Berthoud decided to build a watch with no CNC machinery, no computer aided design. It is ancient watchmaking. Everything is done by hand. What you will discover is simply stunning. Stay tuned and enjoy.
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With me is the mentor behind the project, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. A very warm welcome on Watch Advisor.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
1:17 ↗
Thank you, Mr. Lind, for inviting me on Watch Advisor.
I'm happy to have you. Where did everything start? When did you have the idea to make a watch without CNC machines, using almost forgotten techniques?
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
2:03 ↗
Let's go back 30 years. I started Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier from scratch, putting every step of production in place for our first movement. This taught me that transmitting knowledge about craftsmanship is essential. Later, when I was asked to launch 'Naissance d'une Montre 3', I wanted to differentiate it. One evening, over a glass of wine, I thought: how about a group of young and experienced people working together on one watch, making everything by hand using only vintage machines from the 1950s? No CNC, no computers, totally analog watchmaking.
Exactly. Did you allow them to use electricity?
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
3:58 ↗
Yes. We have a river next to here, we could produce electricity like in the old days, but we didn't go that far. It was a real journey. We had to convince colleagues and organize 45 to 50 craftsmen. The further we went, the more motivated everyone became. Every single part of the watch was done by hand, and we rediscovered forgotten techniques – we could talk an hour just about the balance wheel.
Let's go to the atelier where the parts are manufactured. Open the door.
It's interesting to see how the different parts are made. This workshop is very impressive.
Karl-friedrich Scheufele
5:51 ↗
Yes, we sourced antique machines from workshops across Switzerland and refurbished them. The challenge was to adapt the tools to the design, not the other way around. For one movement, we have 744 parts, including a 17 cm chain with 285 links. The balance wheel axis requires two microns precision by hand. After decoration, everything is checked under a microscope – same quality standards as any Ferdinand Berthoud watch. For one movement, we spend over 600 hours just on decoration.
I love it. This is how watchmaking should be done, going back to the roots.
Creativity and knowing where to find what you need is key. They used pear wood from a parquet floor for a polishing machine – they found it on eBay. The wood is extremely hard and has very regular fibers. The machine doesn't exist, so you have to create your own tool.
I love it. It's so fascinating.
We are now watching Peter using a pantograph to shape bridges and the platinum. The precision is within microns. For the first prototype, we already spent 11,000 hours of work from 80 people. This explains the maxim on the bridge: 'Time tells' – meaning only with time will you become a master watchmaker.
We finished? It's impossible to show everything. But I think you got an impression.
It's a big educating process, even for experienced watchmakers. The young generation loves rediscovering real watchmaking.
Decorating a movement is done with wooden sticks, not electric tools. We are enriching our knowledge, not going backwards.
You started a brand called Ferdinand Berthoud after getting passionate about the person. He was a genius. You are also teaching the old way.
We acquired the name Berthoud in 2006 but only launched the first FB1 in 2015. I was fascinated by Berthoud's approach to teaching. He wrote 3,000 pages of literature and shared his knowledge. Most watchmakers don't want to share, but Berthoud was different. He even wrote a book on how to regulate his pendulum clocks using the sun.
What you do with Ferdinand Berthoud is out of words. The beauty is beyond anything I have seen.
I always refuse to cut corners. We accept that production is limited – about 300 pieces in 10 years. But we probably have the most beautiful finishes in the industry today.
The escapement wheel is a delicate part. All angles have to be sharp cut. It's a huge work.
The polishing is not only for beauty but also functional – to reduce air friction. The same standards apply as to any other Berthoud watch.
Aerodynamic reasons. Sounds crazy, but it is the case.
It takes more time because the surface from handmade machines is sharper. We leave more material for hand finishing. This bridge is mirror polished so you can see the chain reflecting.
